Britain's River

PRICE, MATTHEW

Britain's River The life and times of the stream that divides London. BY MATTHEW PRICE As rivers go, England's Thames can't compete with the epic length of the Nile or the muddy grandeur of the...

...Nowadays, the Thames is, perhaps, a less interesting place...
...Er, okay...
...At only 215 miles, it isn't even the longest river in Britain...
...The Thames has undoubtedly been a waterway of strategic and commercial importance—for London, especially—but Schneer somehow manages to overstate its importance...
...It is certainly less dangerous (and surely smells better...
...After a decade of Cromwellian austerity, the capital reveled in good times...
...Interestingly, Schneer notes that "frost fairs have disappeared not because of global warming" but because London Bridge, whose mass of pilings blocked the flow of ice, was pulled down in 1831...
...a class of low and miserable beings who are accustomed to Grub in the River at low water for Old Ropes, Metals and Coals...
...By the end, he is in despair and throws up his hands: "Perhaps the Thames is more bound up with regional than national identities...
...Schneer, however, doesn't have much confidence in this tack, for we also read that while "understandings of the Thames have sometimes contributed to definitions of the nation as a whole, they have not done so always, and they have rarely done crucially...
...The river doesn't always run through it...
...Crowds thronged to the riverbanks to see the gaudy procession, which the diarist John Evelyn vividly described as "the most magnificent triumph ever floated on the Thames, considering the innumerable number of boates & Vessels, dressd and adornd with all imaginable Pomp: but above all, the Thrones, Arches, Pageants & other representations, stately barges of the Lord Mayor & Companies, with various Inventions, musique, & Peales of Ordnance both from vessels and shore...
...For this reader, national construction is an irritating distraction...
...Schneer doesn't do nearly enough with the lurid side of 19th-century Thames life, so pungently described by Bella Bathurst in her recent book The Wreckers: the world of rat catchers, body snatchers, and "mud larks," who one Victorian journalist marvelously described as "aquatic itinerants...
...And then follows with "usually a river is just a river...
...But the river wasn't merely a royal playground...
...London's unchecked growth and bustling port took the toll on the health of Old Father Thames...
...perch and trout swam in the currents...
...You won't find anything as kooky—or fun—in Schneer's Thames...
...In the Victorian era, the Thames had something of a schizophrenic identity...
...As he notes, the Thames provided a stage for a good bit of royal spectacle over the centuries, perhaps none more spectacular than Charles Il's "Aqua Triumphalis" in 1662, which marked the House of Stuart's return to the English throne...
...When Schneer hews closely to the particulars of the river, his account picks up a bit...
...But as Jonathan Schneer argues in this muddled book, the Thames remains special for its role in British history: "[W]ho would deny that the Thames is more an avenue of history than any other waterway," he asks, "that it is a national river in a way that other rivers are not...
...BY MATTHEW PRICE As rivers go, England's Thames can't compete with the epic length of the Nile or the muddy grandeur of the Mississippi...
...Schneer's claims are grandiose, but he issues them with hesitation...
...Benjamin Disraeli recoiled from the "Stygian pool reeking with ineffable and intolerable horrors," while a leading paper thundered that "gentility of speech is at an end...
...Bazalgette battled the Thames's treacherous currents, reclaiming over 30 acres of land and significantly narrowing the river in the process...
...lation: "The Thames may or may not be Britain's river," he concedes...
...Enter the engineer Joseph Bazal-gette, whom Disraeli tapped to fix the problem...
...By 1864, thousands of laborers had laid some 300 million bricks, creating a vast 82-mile sewer system that carried some 150 million gallons of sewage a day out to sea...
...This is the dark, seedy Thames of Dickens—read the sublime opening pages of Our Mutual Friend for a taste—who barely rates a mention in Schneer's account...
...This was the Thames that would inspire William Morris...
...London's vast port, which bustled with some of the largest docks in the world, hummed along until the 1960s, withstanding near destruction by the Luftwaffe during World War II, but not shifts in the global economy in the decades after...
...He frequently runs aground in a fog of vacilMatthew Price is a critic and journalist in Brooklyn...
...From an eccentric, history-haunted visionary like Peter Ackroyd we would get a mystical, slightly daft, gloriously overwrought exercise in historical sociology, complete with interviews with Dickens and Turner, and the odd Druid...
...this one just isn't it...
...London's Docklands were transformed into a rather sterile office district—which clearly displeases Schneer, who wrings his hands over plucky East Enders displaced by hordes of yuppie brokers, and the new barons of Fleet Street who took up residence in the Canary Wharf tower...
...Aside from being unfair to the Mississippi, this is an awfully large conceit to float on such a little river...
...But downstream, the river oozed with filth...
...Lurching uneasily between strained lyricism and academic cultural studies waffle—he makes noises about the Thames's relationship to the "ongoing construction of England"— Schneer ponders "some of the river's shifting meanings and their connections with the national story over many millennia...
...The Magna Carta was hammered out in the fields of Runnymede alongside the Thames, but Schneer's rehash contributes nothing to our understanding of this seminal event, or the life of the river itself...
...Schneer's story flags most when the Thames is simply there as (he admits) "a backdrop" to famous events...
...A couple of times a century, the Thames would freeze over, and enterprising souls would set up rollicking "frost fairs," where noisy vendors hawked goods, food, and drink...
...There is a good book to be written about the Thames in English history and culture...
...Its conical piers, fashioned from gleaming stainless steel, are reminiscent of the soaring curves of Sydney's opera house...
...The so-called Great Stink in the summer of 1858 was a defining moment...
...In one of those Victorian feats of ingenuity, Bazalgette dramatically altered both London and the Thames...
...After two decades of wrangling, and eight years of construction, the Thames Barrier was unveiled in 1982 at Woolwich, east of London's central core...
...As temperatures soared, vile odors wafted into the Houses of Parliament...
...To the west of London, towards Oxford and beyond, it flowed through the countryside...
...It is a beautiful, functional, and justly applauded structure that would do Bazalgette proud...
...Less colorful, yes, but one more evolution in a teeming city that is endlessly changing...
...The man cannot make up his mind...
...So consumed is he with the Thames's "interconnectedness with so much history" that, at times, the river disappears from sight altogether...
...It stinks: and whoso once inhales the stink can never forget it, and may count himself lucky if he lives to remember it...
...After a devastating tidal surge roared up the Thames estuary and flooded much of southeast England in 1953, politicians and planners mooted schemes for a barrage across the river...

Vol. 11 • February 2006 • No. 20


 
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