The Great American Saloon Series/Harry's on Hanover Square
Mysak, Joe
THE GREAT AMERICAN SALOON SERIES HARRY'S ON HANOVER SQUARE by Joe Mysak W e eat and drink light, or "lite," now, "grazing" on dishes resembling nothing so much as what used to be called hors...
...Nowhere else can one get news of the latest personnel moves, details on the latest multibillion dollar financings, and the inside story of how securities lawyers negotiate with a firm's more fractious clients: "First, we appeal to reason...
...When it comes time to get a table, consult with Peter, the debonair, graying master of ceremonies, and he will place you at one of the choice tables at the bar, served by waiters Chris, Harry, or Paul...
...The perils of the journey make the arrival at your destination the sweeter...
...They pour freehand, and liberally, and use individual splits of mixers instead of the plastic guns that have infected every saloon in the Republic, from the greatest to the meanest...
...Or you may be consigned to the far reaches of Siberia, fine in its way, but •not the hot center that the bar is...
...He may direct you to the room next door, with murals of quaffing monks...
...There are almost thirty tables in the barroom, covered with red tablecloths...
...And overhead is an original pressed-tin ceiling, no potted plants, and a pair of Bond Buyer Wire machines, the municipal bond equivalent of a stock ticker, for Harry's is favored by the municipal bond crowd: dealers, underwriters, traders, salesmen, analysts...
...Empire builders do not live on beans and greens...
...But it was a surprise to see such pop eating crack the ranks of Wall Street, where I work, and where such giants as J. P. Morgan and Jay Gould plied their trade...
...The dash to Harry's at Hanover Square, a few blocks south of Wall Street, has been made from my office, even by my Marlin Fitzwater-like body, in one minute and 53 seconds, and has been covered in three minutes from Merrill Lynch Capital Markets, 3.5 minutes from Dean Witter Reynolds, 3.8 from Shearson Lehman Brothers, and a flat 46 seconds from Salomon Brothers...
...Follow this with a slab of steak or swordfish, or on Wednesday, Beef Wellington...
...Bartenders Danny, Jerry, and John are masters of the craft...
...The Wine Cellar is a perfectly good spot to take a date for dinner, and is one of the few in the restaurant that women like, although Susanna once confided, "This reminds me of 'The Cask of Amontillado,' " but such are the perils of going out with a Yale English Lit...
...The price of the drinks, under $3, is not an insult, and downright inexpensive in a city known for making its populace pay for the privilege...
...Top it off with a chocolate mousse, a napoleon, or some leaden cheesecake, and a pot of strong coffee...
...You do not get this from a man who cowers in the presence of a lamb chop...
...The pace is no doubt quickened by the necessity of passing gourmet salad bars, and croissant and quiche shops, which despite the early hour already have long queues of customers clamoring for their tender wares, queues to make a Byelorussian Joe Mysak is assistant managing editor of the daily Bond Buyer...
...No sense wasting any time," observed Mr...
...I seem to recall the presence of some gold drapes, taken either from the Czar's summer palace or the set of the old Jackie Gleason show...
...No, indeed, but an hour and a half is more than enough for lunch, even if one is following Boswell's London Journal advice and shunning diets as "weakening," and resolving to be"hearty and stout...
...I added that I was off to a lunch at Harry's, and so would be back a little late...
...major...
...Such simpering behavior in males not nominally dancers, hairdressers, florists, and fashion designers is unseemly, although today's media elites will never say so, so afraid are they of being accused of insensitivity...
...So does the gossip, with much of thenews of the bond industry first overheard at the bar...
...Bad enough was an invitation to a dainty patisserie from a colleague...
...Then we get tough...
...worse was when another began to declaim on the wonders and benefits of some Guatemalan or Peruvian vegetarian diet...
...The most reassuring sight in Harry's I have ever seen was of two octogenarians eating lunch, each with a bottle of wine at his place...
...You'll never see your money, because we can tie this up in court for ten years.' Finally, if they persist—whine, and sweeten the settlement...
...When was the last creative suggestion or actual idea, invention or art work, to come out of Guatemala...
...Among the sclerotic favorites served up are, for starters, oysters, a fine cheesy onion soup, or caesar salad topped with grated parmesan, anchovies, and croutons...
...Harry's at Hanover Square (no relation to any other Harry's besides the one in the catacombs of the Woolworth Building) is located in the bottom of the India House, a landmark AngloItalianate brownstone built in 1852, which once housed the Cotton Exchange The India House was remodeled in 1924 as a businessmen's club, heavy on the Clipper ship memorabilia and overstuffed leather furnishings...
...THE GREAT AMERICAN SALOON SERIES HARRY'S ON HANOVER SQUARE by Joe Mysak W e eat and drink light, or "lite," now, "grazing" on dishes resembling nothing so much as what used to be called hors d'oeuvres, nibbling on nouvelle primitive cuisine served in inordinately large plates...
...The only other piece of decoration in the bar at Harry's—which is the heart of the place—is a painting by Leroy Nieman, the sports artist, of the bar at Harry's...
...Back unto the breach, where I was confronted with the statement that every company in the free world provided its employees with a microwave oven, except ours...
...Harry's is also a good spot to unwind after a hard day spent saying no to the barbarians...
...And reporters...
...Washington's men froze at Valley Forge in defense of liberty, and some young pups feel themselves put upon because they have no microwave oven to heat their quiche...
...their elders ought not encourage them.' Away, sirrah...
...blush with recognition...
...Ryan, one of the regulars...
...All well and good for Third Worlders," I told him...
...Western Civilization, which has been entrusted to our hands, cannot survive on wood-meat and berries...
...Even the bar snack is right: crocks of sharp cheddar and bread...
...This way to the salad bar, gentlemen, and easy on the dressing, if you please...
...The Beck's on tap is excellent, but the Dewar's moves fastest...
...Or you may be seated in the Wine Cellar, an intimate spot where the Great Man himself, owner Harry Poulakakos, eats dinner...
...As Queen Victoria said, 'the youth are getting soft...
...continued on page 47) (continued from page 35) 'Go ahead and sue,' we tell them...
...Downstairs at Harry's, however, is where the action takes place To be sure, it is not a place to get gently stewed: the roar by 12:20 rivals the New York Stock Exchange...
...rofessionals invariably stop at the rbar for a cocktail or two before lunch, and here again, an appreciation of the classic abides...
...The bartenders are amiable, and chatty, andknow the regulars...
...Strictly optional are after dinner drinks and cigars, although such things are known, as are last rounds at the bar before toddling back to work...
...Still, it is eminently civilized, with none of the corruptions of the modern age, featuring dark paneling, stained glass windows, and a large, rectangular wooden bar, unadorned except for a brass rail...
Vol. 20 • June 1987 • No. 6
