Politique Internationale/ Visions of Cairo
Taki
POLITIQ UE INTERNATIONALE VISIONS OF CAIRO by Taki Cairo--Although Arab Islamic history began in the Arabian Peninsula, it was in Cairo that Islam gained its legitimacy and fashioned a...
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...Although Egypt's President Mubarak keeps a close watch on the Moslem Brotherhood and other Islamic fundamentalists and extremists, my personal guess is that he wants to live more than he wants to lead, or continue the peace process begun by his predecessor...
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...But Washington would be foolish to count on Mubarak in the crunch...
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...Fact: After more than 30 years, over 400 scrolls remain unpublished and withheld from scholarly study...
...I was very pro-Palestinian in those days, and the Palestinians I spoke with in Cairo in 1970, people like Mohammed Sid Ahmed, not only made sense, but had they been allowed to have a dialogue with the Israelis Sadat might have gone to Jerusalem...
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...After all, he figured, Nasser had come and nationalized everything and still life could be sweet and profits sweeter...
...Mubarak is not about tobreak diplomatic relations with Israel because he wants to keep all doors open and money channels clear...
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...They cheated and insulted all athletes but their own (and the Palestinians, who were admitted while Israel was not, and this, supposedly, was a world championship...
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...and Qaddafi to be at first attracted and eventually repelled by Cairo and for what the ancient city stood...
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...The old sensuality'is gone...
...The hard-liners and Moslem fanatics hate and want to weed them out more than they yearn to drive Israel into the sea...
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...Even the traditional Egyptian hospitality has suffered...
...He got out while the getting out was still good-and his dream alive...
...Down in the Sudan Nimeiri got the message and he declared the Sharia the law of the land, even though more than a third of his subjects are Christians...
...Our factories and businesses were nationalized (though with a smile...
...These were the very same lights that led Moslem fanatics to murder the brave Anwar Sadat...
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...He is about to buy Cairo's soul...
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...Combined with industry and cars they make the ancient city a polluted, sweaty hellhole...
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...I also remember arguing with a reporter who was there for the first time about what Nasser had done for his people...
...Every time I would get a whiff of roasted peanuts, or smell jasmine, or hear a boat glide silently through water, Cairo came to mind...
...One now pays in advance in top hotels and waiters ask for cash before they serve drinks...
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...It was like catching the scent of a woman you had loved and lost...
...Mubarak knows that if he strays from the line the extremists allow him to toe, he will be as good as dead...
...POLITIQ UE INTERNATIONALE VISIONS OF CAIRO by Taki Cairo--Although Arab Islamic history began in the Arabian Peninsula, it was in Cairo that Islam gained its legitimacy and fashioned a civilization...
...I remember thinking that the city now seemed poorer: the people worse off, the housing dilapidated, and the beggars everywhere...
...When I lived in Cairo in the fifties I used to spend my days playing tennis at the Gezira Sporting Club, my nights gambling at the Mohammed Ali...
...D e s p i t e the condition I found Cairo in, I still felt that it was the only capital, that could lead the Arab world...
...Israel at least will not send a hit team, is his way of thinking...
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...The Assad faction is an Alawite tribe, and by allying himself with Khomeini Assad keeps his fifty percent Shiite majority quiescent...
...The old sophisticated Cairenes are reeling, being shoved aside by hucksters whose pleasures are in acquiring Mercedes cars and flats in Helipolis with lots of stereo equipment, anctwhose women wear designer jeans...
...Islamic fundamentalists like the Saudis, or Moslem totalitarians like Assad, view Egyptian tolerance and liberalism not unlike a vampire does a CROSS...
...Khomeini will cast the first stone...
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...Where the Turk, the Frenchman, and the Englishman failed, he has succeeded...
...When I left Cairo for good it was like deciding to kick a habit...
...Sadat knew it also, but that is the difference between great and mediocre men...
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...I remember living here as a young man and hearing sophisticated foreigners admit that Cairo, not Paris or Oxford, was the magnet of Arab youth...
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...Cairo today is still an authentic capital, still proud, but the 12 million people who have invaded it are about to give it the coup de grgtce...
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...There are laws against everything--in a vain attempt to control the tide of humanity--with the result that no one obeys anything, including the red traffic light rule...
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...It is also why the rest of the Arab world was so quick to excommunicate and condemn Sadat after his historic trip to Jerusalem...
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...Either way, Sadat might be the luckiest of men...
...The heat and dust were always there...
...The bloodiest, simplest, and cruelest of religions suited the laidback Cairenes to the proverbial T. Without Islam Cairo would have turned out more decadent than Los Angeles...
...The recent trip of Arafat was window dressing...
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...Mubarak is pragmatic and methodical...
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...I failed miserably i n the karate championships I was competin~ in, and saw a side of the Egyptian public I never knew existed...
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...Whereas Sadat ruled pharaonically, Mubarak listens to popular opinion, or pretends to anyway...
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...Pride in losing three wars and having no food in their bellies and no clothes on their back," I answered, and he gave me the kind of look that lefties give when reminded that it is the Soviet Union that jails and tortures and kills people, not the good old USA...
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...This was the time of Nasser, the late fifties, and although in his dream of pan-Arabism Nasser tried to put the lights out, they remained lit, in universities, in the houses of cosmopolitan Egyptians, even along the Kasr-EI-Nil, where the smart nightclubs and casinos are situated to this day...
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...Fortunes were confiscated and the Mohammed Ali club became a tomb...
...And things have gotten worse since the death of Sadat...
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...With it, or in fear of Islam rather, the Cairenes outwitted and outwaited all conquerors, lulled their foes to sleep, charmed Turk, Anglo-Saxon, Frenchman, and Greek into making Cairo the last bastion of ChristianMoslem co-existence, and in the process managed to resist the excesses of Islamic law and Moslem tolerance...
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...T h i s was in more ways than one an unlucky trip for me...
...The butcher Assad is now in cahoots with his counterpart in Iran simply out of convenience...
...46 THE AMERICAN SPECTATOR MARCH 1984...
...If he doesn't, the extremist will...
...My father had inspected the scene and decided that nothing would change...
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...But change it did...
...To make matters worse it's in the nature of things that this unmatched experience must be relived...
...The Shiites and the Sunni fundamentalists want to replace all secular governments with religious ones...
...elective system replaced by an integrated, comprehensive study of mathematics, experimental science, language, music, history, literature, philosophy, and theology...
...In a country as backward as Egypt this is a bad thing...
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...six years earlier, Responsible and wise Palestinians, however, are not a good bet to die of old age in that part of the world...
Vol. 17 • March 1984 • No. 3
