FOOD, MAN, AND THE GOOD LIFE

Sheridan, Mary

Sing a Song of Sixpence Food, Man, And The Good Life By MARY SHERIDAN SAN FRANCISCO'S restaurant owners, pondering how they can feed the extra Americans, British, Russians, Chinese, and Brahmins...

...Robert P. Tristram Coffin's Mainstays of Maine (Macmillan, $2) is more a book about food than a cookbook, though you'll find lovingly detailed descriptions of those slow-cooking New England dishes, baked beans and Indian pudding, and of Coffin's adored smelts and chicken dumplings and wild strawberry cream...
...With people starving for any kind of food in too many parts of the world, this light report on cookbooks is of course fluff...
...Egg' Cookery explores the egg, from buying and storing to the table, in the greatest possible detail...
...Fortunately there are plenty of assurances that good food is worth its demands...
...However, Mr...
...The Chinese Were Right' On the specialized side are Serve H Buffet, by Florence Brobeck (Barrows...
...A bad one will make him quarrelsome and disputatious...
...Since I have an aversion for those coy magazine articles about dishes for men to prepare, I picked up 200 Dishes for Men to Cook, by Arthur H. Deute (Barrows, $2) with some suspicion...
...Coffin has very firm opinions on lobsters, blueberries, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the superiority of Maine in general, and he writes about them all with emotional conviction...
...He's a little over-proud, for my taste, of his travels and his friendships with chefs, but that's a minor matter...
...There must be moments in every woman's life when she considers that food takes an inordinate amount of time and work...
...You can tell how serious a matter food is to the owner and chef of the Omar Khayyam restaurant by his words: "A good dinner will put any man in a conciliatory frame of mind...
...Coffin says, "The Chinese were right in believing good cooking made the good and handsome life...
...How men eat definitely influences their judgment as well as their digestion...
...Gastronomical Gusto As well as being a book of recipes easy to understand, it's a book of wonderfully pleasant talk about food...
...Each is competent, but I fail to understand why publishers use up paper supplies on them, when cooks can get so much more for their money by adding 50 cents or so to the price and acquiring an all-around cookbook like America's Cook Book or Irma Rom-bauer's...
...Barrows, $2...
...George Mardikian...
...Ann Williams-Heller's book on vegetables contains more than 300 recipes and is very clear and nutritionally informed, and the recipes aren't just routine...
...Empires can be built or destroyed at the dinner table...
...However, my guess is that most of us are refreshed by the reminder of the simple things as these books remind cooks and would-be cooks, that nourish life in more ways than one...
...Well, that's an interesting statement if true, but there are no if's at all about George Mardikian's cookbook, Dinner at Omar Khayyam's (Viking, $2.75...
...Sloan and Pearce...
...There's an introduction, too, by Joseph Henry Jackson, reviewing San Francisco's tradition of good food...
...It's a thoroughly engaging cookbook, covering simple to fancy discoveries in meat, fowl, fish, salads, vegetables, appetizers, and desserts, all more or less familiar to American tongues, plus Armenian dishes like madzoon and pilaff, and Armenian variations, like Misov Derevapatat (stuffed grape or cabbage leaves), that add a new twist...
...Mardikian exudes that faith in every page, and Mr...
...Smith's book is really a continuation of his popular Stina, and the fine recipes—a few are pretty exotic—are matched by the readable text of his gastronomical experiences...
...Deute, a native Oregonian who has eaten well in many parts of the world, is not coy and has some sound suggestions on stews, salads, and fish that don't require too much work...
...to ask for an additional 500,000 pound meat allotment...
...Dwell...
...Sing a Song of Sixpence Food, Man, And The Good Life By MARY SHERIDAN SAN FRANCISCO'S restaurant owners, pondering how they can feed the extra Americans, British, Russians, Chinese, and Brahmins who will swell the city during the Conference, chose an eloquent spokesman...
...Of these three books...
...Mardikian's book and Kitchens Near arid Far by Herman Smith (Barrows, $2) are the best books on food I've come across in the last six months...
...She includes some fine menu suggestions and general cooking directions with her widely varied recipes of food that can be served buffet style...
...Florence Brobeck's is the most useful...
...Peace in our time can well depend upon whether we soothe or insult the gastronomic tastes of our guests...
...2) and Egg Cookery, by Lily Haxworth Wallace...
...Mardikian, like his countryman, William Saroyan, (who writes a glowing foreword), loves life and America with gusto, and his zest for them is stirred in with his passion for superb food...
...Cooked to Your Taste, by Ann Williams-Heller...

Vol. 9 • April 1945 • No. 17


 
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