Mississippi Footprints
Harkness, James
James Harkness MISSISSIPPI FOOTPRINTS Lies they live in Greenwood. Even in an age of Major Motion there are certain small towns people leave mostly on buses: Southern towns, Dixie towns, baking...
...Here it was unmarked, narcissistically virginal...
...I know there are certain houses hedged with dusty azaleas, set back from broad July avenues under oak and pecan trees, and I am aware that something about their dreaming porches on a fragrant night keeps me from ever being able to say the ache I feel then is time, only time...
...Please bill my ^ VISA ^ MasterCard Acct...
...In towns like Greenwood, and in towns smaller and larger, better and worse than Greenwood, blacks have finally begun to move into once-white neighborhoods...
...In an area where blacks outnumbered whites two to one, they were not just in-conspicuous...
...or a black woman as "Miss" or "Mrs...
...It occurred to me that this was the last place I'd ever belonged—not in the trivial sense of fitting in or feeling at home, but in the intimate and intimidating sense of belonging to, being owned by, vulnerable to being transfixed, recognized, classified, and known by the summary gaze of anybody with whom you might happen to share a study hall...
...John's own passion was for objets du garage: more precisely, the only actual hot rod in northwest Mississippi, a gleaming chrome icon he'd rebuilt pretty much from the lug-nuts up...
...I had forgotten what the brittle brown stubble feels like to walk on...
...She was a great archetypal Southern belle: a crinoline clotheshorse who spoke up in Sunday school, saving herself for her eventual husband but not averse to amusing herself by sending home with terminal blue-balls whomever she was going steady with in the interim...
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...The arterial bypass has burgeoned with Ramada Inns and Pizza Huts...
...They were laborers and yardmen, house-keepers and washerwomen, not managers or secretaries or cashiers...
...But numerous big houses were boarded up, with for-sale signs askew in shaggy yards...
...The black riots of the late 1960s led in city after city to the continuing massive flight to the white suburbs and the white abandonment of the public schools...
...A young woman sitting in a booth waved to me, and when I drifted over turned out to be a former neighbor, a girl one or two years ahead of me in school, a cheerleader and baton twirler I'd had a mild crush on without ever trying anything bolder than cutting in on her boyfriends during dances in the American Legion hall...
...RONALD REAGAN ECONOMICS IN ONE LESSON This book has been the springboard from which millions have come to understand the basic truths about economics—and the economic fallacies responsible for inflation, unemployment, high taxes, and recession...
...I wanted to see whether Mrs...
...Would-be riders have to sit outside straddling cheap suitcases, killing time until the big double-decked cruisers slide to a stop alongside some Rexall drugstore, with its orange and blue sign buzzing above the sidewalk...
...A little further on was Juanita's Jewelry, where my classmates and I bought high school rings the size of walnuts at the end of our junior year...
...Although strangers usually grumble that the delta is boring to traverse, that is a hasty misapprehension...
...Nostalgia is an essentially onanistic sentiment, and I wasn't anxious to have anyone I knew catch me wallowing in its embarrassing pornographic slough...
...Others still flee on buses, clambering up like their parents, uncles, aunts, and grandparents from flyblown parking lots into the Greyhound's subaqueous interior darkness...
...The latter was a cluttered predictable business of pedestal, plaque, stylized heroism...
...The next several streets are also residential...
...Some fly away across United'svacuously amiable skies...
...It doesn't matter that I can't use her name: I've always thought of her and all her tribe as Honeymush Beauregard...
...Sometimes when my mother visited her family out of state, my father took me there for deep-fried cat-fish dinners, served in an obscure brown sauce I remember as being spicy and delicious...
...Others get out in nondescript oil-burning station wagons...
...The bus station sits on one corner of Main and Church streets, its windows as sad and soapy as twenty years ago...
...Across the intersection, an angular three-story structure unfolds low wings from either side...
...Saucier still worked there...
...One was an organized, umpired affair between young girls in sky-blue uniforms...
...I knew it was the same because my name was on the title page, directly below the author's...
...I went in anyway...
...49, which brings you across the vast alluvial plain that has been the deep South's greatestnatural resource since its first settlement by Europeans...
...that it is an agripolis fattened on traditional Southern staples, cotton and soybeans...
...abnegation, as in "abnegation of the apotheotic...
...Stylistically, it verged on an unintentional parody of the Faulknerian voice, brimming with the in, im, and ab words: indominatable, as in "indominatable Southern womanhood...
...They have, as Honeymush noted, "let the niggers have" a measure of what they sought, and they have been pleased to find the tactical concession of a restaurant table or city park not incompatible with a strategic intransigence that has, as Morris offhandedly admits, kept Mississippi blacks in the nation's most "emphatic" poverty and deprivation...
...For as long as I've known the place, Greenwood has had a kind of community fatuousness deriving partly from rural affluence, partly from a peculiar sense of superior civic virtue...
...To know about Greenwood what it helps to know is that it's the seat of Leflore County, in northern Mississippi...
...That the arrangement had every appearance of the women's acting as their domestics' personal chauffeurs, nobody gave any evidence of being aware, although I would bet that there were some throaty private chuckles over it in the close nights on the other side of the tracks...
...As always, the lawn around the statue was pale from being cut too short, giving off the yeasty smell of clippings that had begun composting the instant they hit the ground...
...It was full of rambling citations from local newspapers, overloaded to capsizing with local color...
...In the mean-time, in Greenwood and towns like it, Southern whites have found clever little ways to reinstate the invisibility of blacks, at least where it matters most...
...We watched a flaccid woman with a cigarette hanging off her lip prowling around the dining room, dispatching flies with a wire-handled swatter...
...She told me about her two little girls, and how the good Lord had helped her through the divorce...
...it was black and gummy in the heat...
...Just before the turn-off for a commercial and light industry loop, strategic signs huckster some tourist trap dubbed the "Cottonlandia" museum...
...On the way out of Greenwood, I stopped off at the high school...
...On a gravel lot to one side of my old high school a dozen yellow buses were waiting, their array of windshields glazed and unreadable...
...Like other white businessmen in town, he called black customers only by their given names, in the cheerfully patronizing tones you use to speak to a child...
...If you turned right just beyond the junior high school, you would soon pass a cemetery where we played touch football year round, pounding along improvised sidelines and screaming prodigious teenage obscenities when we crashed blindly into the tombstones...
...It was merely this: black people going about their business, moving purposefully along or stopping to chat, heads up, smiling, looking for all the world as if this was, to paraphrase the song, "their town too...
...The sheet music was Wild Bill, all right, but the beat was wrong—metronomically stiff instead of syncopated, like a minor Italian diplomat trying to learn to boogaloo...
...You can, of course, go home again, especially if you take care not to get caught...
...Honeymush told me she'd tried the Scarsdale diet four times but just couldn't seem to keep those of fatties at bay...
...outside a few clenched, fearsome slums, it was as if they were systematically concealed...
...Across the river, south Green-wood is more of a hodgepodge...
...After twenty years, she didn't seem startled that I'd turned up here from nowhere for a late lunch...
...Umbrella-shaded stands dispensed cokes and ice cream bars to the families and friends milling around behind the backstops...
...Yet . . . one was witness to the decline in the urban civilization of the North...
...What it really is, is a bill of goods, a deadly insult to moral intelligence: like an Arab hijacker who claims loving kin-ship with his hostages, because of all they've been through together...
...Late in the afternoon I stopped by the city park, directly opposite the Youth Center...
...As a boy I orbited indiscriminately between them, and what arcane criteria distinguished the two archives I never fathomed...
...All over Green-wood, meanwhile, the businessmen's harried white wives drove across the railroad crossings every day to pick up and drop off their black cooks and gardeners, who knew without asking that they must ride alone in the back seats...
...And what I saw in this part ofGreenwood, as earlier on the downtown streets, was astonishingearth-shaking in its way, although it was of course quite ordinary as well...
...Mrs...
...Morris is a former editor of Harper's and a Southerner himself, the product of a little town called Yazoo City, sixty miles further than Greenwood down into kudzu and copperhead country...
...That it was possible, within the somewhat restricted means of a teenager, to acquire your own copy of Robinson Crusoe, not to mention Henry Gregor Felsen's Street Rod and Robert A. Heinlein's Red Planet, was a revelation that staggered me...
...In this view, what hap-pens between blacks and whites in the South tends ever toward transcendence, hosannas all the more empyrean because of the depths from which they've spiraled up...
...She was friendly, exotic, funny in her droll despair over her son's resolute lack of interest in objets d'esprit...
...Large, mostly well-kept older houses line River Road along one bank of the Yazoo, from Fulton Street past the hospital...
...It was once the Crystal You can, of course, go home again, especially if you take care not to get caught...
...Somehow the land's harsh look implies final things, as if thehorizon were not just an endpoint of vision but the edge of the world...
...It gave me a shock, and it gave me a case of the giggles...
...In truth, there's something powerfully other-worldly about it...
...But what finally made me toss the book aside was that it was about more than football, resurrecting at its core the South's awful old mythology of race...
...In the fall of 1961, dizzy with the biting smells of witchhazel and drugstore cologne, I had discovered the existence of paper-back books there and proceeded to go mad over them...
...A lot of things I was thinking about were swarming in around me, and after only a few minutes I went back to my car and drove away...
...sunlight reflected from its alabaster planes with a banal and enveloping glare...
...In The Courting of Marcus Dupree, Willie Morris put it this way: The figures were there to see, and they were emphatic—unemployment for blacks in [Mississippi] running two or three times higher than for whites, most black families existing below the recognized poverty level, more than one fourth of all black families fatherless (compared with 56 percent nationally...
...Afterward I strolled past Fulton up to Howard, in my day the busiest commercial street in Greenwood...
...Between them was a grassy strip twenty yards wide, and between them was much more than that...
...Call it hubris, call it chutzpah...
...that it curls around the confluence of three rivers, the Yalobusha, Tallahatchie, and Yazoo...
...In real life, Southern blacks and whites coexist not in some magically restored prelapsarian state, not by the dictates of reciprocal need, but by an armistice as silent and unforgiving as the sea of history...
...When I read Ralph Ellison's The Invisible Man in college, I knew instantly what he was talking about...
...The discovery has revived the old, humorous, relentlessly superficial affability that is the essence of white good-ole-boyism—at times a more formidable bulwark against change than redneck violence or even formal resistance by the political and juridical establishment...
...I had a sandwich at the Crystal Club, Inc., at the east end of Carrollton Avenue, across from the train station...
...I could not...
...Blacks have also come to work in larger numbers in older business districts—districts that have been rapidly displaced in the community by a suburban economy in a pattern that is not novel, after all...
...Greenwood is bisected neatly by the Yazoo River, bridged at three sites within view of one another...
...Like many a Southern writer, he has dwelled compulsively on the places of his youth, notably in North Toward Home, a memoir, and in Yazoo, an account of the desegregation of the public school system there...
...The town backs up against the red clay foothills of Carroll County, whose stringy residents are a source of laid-back amusement for having uncommonly sunburnt necks and being nut-tier than they ought to over pickup trucks...
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...I'd forgotten that penetrating, affecting odor...
...Rees are few, lining up along irrigation ditches and stagnant creeks, or else clumping together in widely-spaced copses like islands on a steaming tropic sea...
...The old building was a squat brown cube with chipped concrete steps and whitewashed doors...
...In the south-bound lanes they poke along, rubbernecking, three, four, five to a car and all talking at once...
...By any standard, really: as much a stranger to this sleepy village as to the boy who once lived here...
...Asphalt had been poured on top of them...
...Saucier did recurrent battery by nagging John about why he couldn't read a bloody book now and then...
...I'd found it on the kids' side, possibly misshelved...
...I wandered around a deserted compound, peering through mesh-reinforced windows at rows of scarred wooden desks...
...Who would have predicted it...
...Send me your catalog of 623 books on liberty...
...Our sports teams did not compete with teams from black schools, although we traveled as far as Memphis, Meridian, and Hattiesburg to make up a decent schedule...
...The only book a librarian ever refused me was Mein Kampf...
...After a few years they may come back for a visit, driving Camaros and Nissans with license plates from Michigan and Pennsylvania and California...
...THE AMERICAN SPECTATOR FEBRUARY 1986 "(Hazlitt) is one of the few economists in history who could really write...
...In summer, beans and cotton grow close to the ground and leave the monotonous prospect unbroken...
...But unless you are the kind of amiably credulous Yankee who has always been so agreeable to the white South—the kind who can't tell the difference between the informality of true camaraderie and the subtle insult of overfamiliarity—I suggest you disbelieve it...
...But when out of some obscure impulse I browsed through the fiction shelves, I found the very copy of Defoe's novel I'd checked out repeatedly as a "young adult...
...There's a lot to be said about the vista, but the main thing to say and what everybody says first of all is that it sure is flat...
...The mother of a friend of mine, she'd come to Mississippi from Australia after World War II...
...One wing houses the police station, its windows recessed and barred...
...Both old and new money have staked claims along shady Grand Boulevard, where some homes have a classic plantation aspect, though I know of none honestly antebellum in origin...
...A surprising number of the establishments I recalled from two decades past still lined the sidewalk: DeLoach's Department Store and Evelyn's Maternity, the Delta Barber Shop, City Finance, Barrett Drugs—now "Barrett-Hodges...
...They let the niggers have everything this side of Senatobia...
...Forgoing the Ho Gai Sai's hybrid gastronomic possibilities (chicken-fried moo goo gai pan...
...Date Signature Name Address City...
...A block over, on Washington, the original public library turned out to be closed, decommissioned, but its successor was just across the street...
...A block south, where Howard runs into Carrollton Avenue, I found something new: Flanked by Goldberg's Shoes and Fred's Dollar Store, there irrupted the Cantonese splendor of Ho Sai Gai, an honest to God Chinese restaurant...
...While blacks had long constituted, in point of fact, the majority race in Leflore County, I can count on one hand the number of extended conversations I had during my teen years with blacks even roughly my own age...
...Finally, Honey-mush spent a little time on the demographic dynamics of Mississippi's response to racial integration...
...Vigilant sentry, stalwart officer, wounded infantryman and ministering nurse, noble wife/mother waiting anxiously, hands clasped and suppliant—in ensemble, they formed the kind of pompous public object that, anywhere but the deep South, groans almost aloud for a. gaudy spew of graffiti...
...Rvo-lane roads stretch for miles in straight lines...
...THE AMERICAN SPECTATOR FEBRUARY 1986 25 Cafe, where a sizable part of the downtown community ate lunch every workday...
...the other two were rowdier, the freeform shirts-and-skins variety...
...At the end of day, the hazy red sun might be extinguishing itself for all time instead of just setting for the night...
...Point your car down the white line, while over your shoulder, bruised thunderclouds pile up like rockslides, gaudy as the oil paintings in any cut-rate furniture store...
...It's the flattest country you'll ever see, flat in an abstract geometrical way that always reminds me Euclid lived on a delta, that his genius sprang from the protractile sightlines of an unobstructed land...
...Add it to your reference shelf—you'll look through it often—or make it a special gift for a friend or a student...
...From the river north to Park Avenue, the town is mainly residential...
...If you were white they'd sell you a "membership" for four bits and usher you along...
...Examining the statistics,] Theodore H. White would conclude: "Big-city schools are now more segregated in fact (though integrated in law) than ever before...
...Gone were the great magenta cobblestones that could blister your feet right through the soles of your shoes...
...Even in an age of Major Motion there are certain small towns people leave mostly on buses: Southern towns, Dixie towns, baking through afternoons so long and torpid that summer dust collects on the azaleas like patina on twisted bronze...
...It was cool underthe trees, where the swings and jungle-gyms and picnic tables were...
...Urban, ethnic, as bizarrely incongruous in that spot as a Manhattan art gallery or SoHo sex shop, the Ho Sai Gai was a surreal, oddly bracing testament to the funky originality of change...
...Out in the sun were three baseball diamonds, with games underway on each...
...The inner door still has a flat metal slot for key cards, but a cashier assured me nobody worried about that any longer...
...Being from Mississippi still isn't the first thing I mention to strangers, and if people ask where my accent's from I answer evasively, "All over...
...But these remain relatively few, and the new presence of blacks is She told me who'd gotten married, who'd done well, who you went to in Greenwood for the real fine hash...
...Inside, the first floor had been divided in half...
...My father—a company man, a shy, sweet man who cared for his family more than was good for him—would not address a black man as "Mr...
...Mississippi was last among all the states in black median family income, which was less than half that of Mississippi whites...
...It was crowded, the risk of gratuitous recognitions higher, but walking around aimlessly I drew only the mildly curious glances reserved for harmless outlanders...
...Blacks did not work in department stores catering to a white clientele, or in such supermarkets except occasionally as bag boys...
...On one side were novels and nonfiction for young adults...
...impenetrable, as in "tangled impenetrable verdancy...
...I saw a bit of restoration under way—new leaded panes going into windows, sagging porches temporarily buttressed by the skinned yellow trunks of pine trees...
...The town where I grew up had a Greyhound station with a proper waiting room, but it was then the kind of place you got out of by bus, and it still is that kind of place...
...Because it is, among other things, a football book, and because I will gleefully devour football books by a-verbal backfield ignoramuses "as told to" hack sportswriters, I had expected to zip through The Courting of Marcus Dupree in no time...
...And if the rural and small-town South often seems an atoll largely outside the shipping lanes of the late twentieth century, it's still the blacks who yearn more for rescue, the blacks who try harder to escape...
...I had no black classmates, no black teachers, no black acquaintances...
...Seeing it there gave me a jolt, a feeling as vertiginous in its way as Crusoe's at that moment when he spied Friday's footprint isolate in the sand...
...If someone had predicted it, he'd have been kidding you, or himself...
...The smugness seems not to have abated, but a note of Snopesism has crept in...
...To a degree they had been...
...26 THE AMERICAN SPECTATOR FEBRUARY 1986 no more notable than the new absence of whites...
...H.L...
...Her chirpy, weightless chatter fascinated me...
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...She used to bomb around on Saturdays in the family Buick, hair up for her evening date, curlers covered with a scarf that snapped briskly in the wind...
...Saucier was no longer behind the circulation desk, and a heavyset young librarian only blinked stolidly when I mentioned the name...
...To my hopeful prospects of riding up and down the local strip as one of a few privileged passengers, Mrs...
...on the other, the regular fare for grownups...
...Wide-places-in-theroad, my dad used to call them, too sunstruck and desiccated even to have a true depot...
...Expir...
...And in the van has come forth once more that lethargic cornpone philosophy by which the South's apologists, eulogists, and endless metaphysicians have repeatedly sought not only to mitigate its abuses but also, by a twist as fervently romantic as it is cynically perverse, to exalt it as a model of racial accord for the country at large...
...I parked on Market Street, which runs past the courthouse and the obligatory Con-federate memorial...
...It is also, I guess, the kind of place few who leave ever really come back to, unless they get chased back...
...I was not flabbergasted, however, to see only white faces inside and wondered if I had any business there even in the name of belated rites of valediction...
...Protean, unblushingly self-serving, this is a formulation in which the suffering Southern whites have visited on generations of blacks is seen as somehow uniting them in mystic communion...
...In part because of a steady decline in cargo traffic on the lower James Harkness is a writer and translator who now lives in upstate New York...
...But I am aware too what it cost that I was a man very nearly grown before I first witnessed, not in Mississippi, between certain otherwise ordinary sets of people, meetings and movements and compacts that were natural, ingenuous, in rare cases even affectionate...
...Henry Hazlitt is the dean of American free market economists, and his clear, concise style illuminates ideas that all generations should know and appreciate...
...These are works not lacking intelligence, with at times an authentic power...
...Over the main door, an inscription in the citron-colored brick: 19 Greenwood City Hall 30...
...The farther south I walked the more pronounced was the ambivalence, until I crossed into an area of considerable dishevelment...
...Mississippi River over the last decade, Greenville, fifty miles west, has given ground somewhat in a longstanding rivalry for eminence, leaving Green-wood as the main economic way station between Memphis and Jackson...
...Before leaving town I wanted a peek into Chaney's Pharmacy...
...But they are also the works of an author pole-axed at an early age by William Faulkner: dazzled outright, stamped branded doomed forever to worship at the graveside of the Old Man of Oxford, revering the estate, keeping tidy the shrine, and worst of all preserving through acolyte and tonedeaf mimickry the purplest labyrinthine excesses of the Old Man's prose...
...Drive a few hours here, and you begin to comprehend all the South's lurid literary brouhaha about primeval soil and relentless/brooding/looming dome of sky, ibbity bibbity boo...
...Now I remembered: 24 THE AMERICAN SPECTATOR FEBRUARY 1986 It felt like walking on wire...
...I reckon you prolly noticed," she said...
...Across the narrow no-man's land no adult nor even any small child straggled from either side...
...It was such an American idyll that it took several minutes to notice the lines that had been drawn—the hundred-odd blacks dug in around the picnic area and playground equipment, the baseball teams and spectators white to a man...
...Not perfectly by chance I had already been reading that week Willie Morris's account of The Courting of Marcus Dupree...
...I'd scrawled it in pencil a generation ago, a gesture of yearning, wistful appropriation...
...By that standard, I was demonstrably an alien now...
...The new library was facelessly modern, with off-street parking, stainless steel brightwork, pastel modular furniture visible through expanses of polarized glass...
...Mushi pork with red-eye gravy...
...A few years after I went away to college, the cafe reincorporated as a private club to avoid seating blacks...
...Heading back north they blast by you at eighty, to hell with 55-saveslives, everybody staring silently for-ward, faces hard, guilty, relieved...
...Now I found myself wondering for the first time about the anonymous department manager at Chaney's who had regularly stocked—in addition to adventure novels and self-hypnosis manuals, salesmanship-for-God books and various kid glop—the Signet Classics versions of Orwell's 1984 and Dostoevsky's The Possessed, Scribner's oversize edition of The Sun Also Rises and a slim volume by Martin Luther King, Jr., with the abrasive, alarming, subversively intriguing title Why We Can't Wait...
...On the whole I'd liked my years in that place, and it surprised me how prison-like the buildings now looked: There's nothing I guess as desolate as an abandoned classroom...
...I slipped into Greenwood at midday one July weekend, looking for nobody in particular and pleased by the empty downtown streets...
...Often you can pick them out on the interstates...
...Did he know I'd had Robinson Crusoe out on loan for the third time...
...Its insights have guided my own thinking and I am proud to count myself as one of your students...
...Nowadays, too, it's a public relations subtext that depicts the "New South" as an archipelago washed by the past but unspoiled by the present, with whites and blacks living together a bit like Crusoe and Friday: If their tracks are all over one another, at least they've learned to step less cruelly on each other's toes...
...winter shows just the dank earth, streaked with black water in naked fur-rows...
...Years ago several of my friends, including my best friend, had lived in this neighborhood...
...I graduated from high school in 1965, with one of the last classes to go through twelve fully segregated grades...
...One of the ironies of contemporary America was that institutionalized racial integration among the young, with all its human implications, was working best in the small to middle-sized towns of Dixie...
...You can come to Greenwood by several approaches, but the most interesting is the northwest one, from Clarksdale over U.S...
...For all its historic pain and disenfranchisement, the relation is posited as more genuine, compassionate, and human than has been or maybe even can be possible in regions where blacks and whites live together less intimately...
...The old Hotel Irving was open on the corner, with the Western Union sign still out and a few people lounging beside one large window, sipping iced tea in the cafe...
...A-26, 532 Broadway, New York, NY 10012 (212) 925-8992 ^ Please send me copies of Henry Hazlitt's Economics in One Lesson for only $6.95 each, plus $1.00 for postage and handling ($2.00 for foreign orders...
...As for racial accommodation elsewhere, the best that can be said is that it's forced and pedestrian, very likely a kind of sham...
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...She told me who'd gotten married, who'd done well, who you went to in Greenwood for the real fine hash...
...In the interaction of whites with blacks there was an element of exorcism, a trick ofdealing with them but refusing to deal with them, that aimed, even a youngster could vaguely sense, at conferring the transparency of nonbeing...
...if you were black they'd turn you away...
...This, all of this, was what made so remarkable the sheer visibility of blacks downtown and on once-forbidden streets in Greenwood—the simple presence of folk for whom, as a group, the very sidewalks had once been off limits...
...It was the second astonishing sight I saw in Greenwood, Mississippi, the arid first weekend in July...
Vol. 19 • February 1986 • No. 2
